Pt 8 Driving the Historic Route 88
Ascend elevations of 2, 719 feet, then plunge 1, 500 feet in knuckle hairpin turns and switchbacks on the historic Apache trail (Pt1)
Part 2 How a Soul's Cry Set This Adventure in Motion
Part 3 No Rv’s Over 10 Years Old!
Part 4 Pt 4 I think we are leaking?
Part 5 Exploring the Unseen Side of Las Vegas: A Journey of Surprises
Pt 6 Sunrise Secrets of the Superstition Mountains
Pt 7 Exploring Tortilla Flats, population 6
Last week we left off looking at the the very east-tip of the town Tortilla Flats and I left you wondering what wonderful treasures lay past this little town. Well, there is a lot. But, the day I visited, there was a massive metal gate with the dreaded “ROAD CLOSED” sign. Does this mean the end of the journey? Not at all. Grab a cuppa and join me as I take you along the historic road less traveled and reveal its incredible secrets.
Tortilla Flat was as far as I went this time. And secretly, I was relieved. Earlier that year, a September 2019 tropical storm caused massive flooding, exacerbated by runoff from the June 2019 Woodbury Fire Scar, the fifth largest wildfire in Arizona’s history. This fire scarred and wiped out the incredible scenic Route 88 to Roosevelt Dam. I feel quite grateful that I had the opportunity to experience this route when I first moved to Arizona. And let me tell you, it is not for the faint of heart; climaxing in 1,000-foot drops in elevation over a 15-17 percent grade, hugging the bronze bluffs full of twists and blind-turns. Sound exciting, right?
I can not leave you hanging here I thought I would continue the journey from Tortilla Flat to Rosevelt Dam in case in the future the road is open SO, relying on my sharp memory and rekindling over photos, of my first real AZ adventure we can adventure on the entire trail.
If you get the chance to experience this day trip, check with the State Board of Transportation (ADOT) before going as they are working on restoring limited access to 5 miles of State Route 88 (Apache Trail) as of July 24/2024. However, it will only be open to high clearance four-wheel drive vehicles and utility terrain vehicles focusing on near Fish Creek Hill, East of Tortilla flat. And, there is a possibility it may be open by September 2025 albeit with limited access. YOU can get up to date information on ADOT website
I know I sound like a nagging mother, however, heed my advice. Fuel up, check the air pressure in your tires, grabs lots of water (half your body weight in ounces x 2), snacks and food for a picnic, and do not forget the bug spray, sunscreen, bathing suit and bring a phone charger, put your phones on airplane mode to save on battery, so you can take lots of photos. Oh, and before you go, be sure to check the weather report. If you are thinking, I might want to stay a while, pack an overnight bag because there are some places to hang your hat. If you do decide to do some hiking or camping, grab a Tonto Pass just in case.
Just at the concrete slab at the eastern tip of town—you can’t miss it—is a dry wash most of the time. You would drive over it without even noticing it. However, if there has been rain in the past day or two, going onward might be out of the question, made obvious by the rushing river. If you have never been to southern Arizona, monsoon season is probably the only time residents pay close attention to the weather. Besides the iconic saguaro cacti, this part of Arizona is known for its unique environment, with blazing hot summers and wonderful mild winters.
Monsoon season in Arizona typically occurs from mid-June to late September. During this time, the state experiences a significant increase in humidity and sudden, intense thunderstorms. These storms are driven by a shift in wind patterns that brings moisture from the Gulf of California and the Pacific Ocean. The result is powerful storms that can produce heavy rainfall, strong winds, lightning, and sometimes hail ranging from pebbles to boulders. Although it sounds terrifying—and it can be—there are also moments of wonder and beauty.
The desert soil is often dry and compacted, with a high clay content. When it rains, the water tends to run off the surface rather than being absorbed. This results in rapid accumulation of water on the surface, quickly overwhelming dry creek beds, known as washes, and other low-lying areas, causing flash floods. These floods can be sudden and severe, turning normally dry areas into torrents of fast-moving water within minutes. These swift rivers are powerful enough to take homes with them—they are that dangerous.
Flash floods are particularly perilous because they can occur with little warning and can be extremely powerful, carrying debris and posing a risk to life. And whatever you do, do not think you can pass through them, even in a high clearance vehicle. It is a humbling experience to witness the aftermath of an Arizona monsoon. And, Arizona also has the Stupid Motorist Law citations that can come with hefty fines including having to pay for the services to rescue you.
Other than monsoon season, the winter rainy season from December to March also warrants checking the weather report before taking on the Trail. This period can bring significant rainfall and potential flooding, so it’s always best to be prepared.
Alrighty then, now that you are prepared, are you ready? Let’s go!
From Tortilla Flat onward, this historic 24.5-mile part of the Apache Trail — also part of the the National Forest Scenic Byway system — was constructed during the building of Theodore Roosevelt Dam in 1911 and serves as a vital link between the East Valley and Roosevelt Lake. Part of it has reopened to the Fish Creek Hill overlook, an amazing scenic spot that should not be missed if you have the chance.
Long before it was considered a horse and stagecoach run, it was the trail the Indigenous Apache tribe used, thus why it is named the Apache trail. And, for a while, was also part of the original Ocean to Ocean Highway until 1922.
Revisiting old pictures to rekindle memories, I thought I would include this because AZDOT is working on restoring this historic scenic byway. It will take time, but perhaps it may be restored by the time you read this. It is worth the drive, and I would make an entire day out of it. Just be sure to hit the loo in Tortilla Flat.
The journey along the Apache Trail from Tortilla Flat to Roosevelt Dam is one of Arizona’s most scenic drives filled with switchbacks and sharp turns with an elevation gain of 2, 719 feet. It is stunning during the spring for its carpets of flowers and rare fall foliage standing out against the brown-red desert. This historic route offers breathtaking vistas, rugged landscapes, geologic formations and a sense of adventure as you travel through the heart of the Superstition Mountains and along the Salt River.
Now that you have a little Arizona weather knowledge, let’s leave Tortilla Flat in our rearview mirror and explore this slice of history.
But be forewarned, it is not for the faint of heart. Leaving Tortilla Flat, the road quickly transitions from paved to a narrow (sometimes one-way) winding dirt path. This part of the trail is known for its challenging driving conditions, but the rewards are plentiful in terms of scenery and adventure. It is one of the most dramatic and awe-inspiring sections of the Apache Trail. The road descends steeply into Fish Creek Canyon, with sheer drop-offs and hairpin turns that require careful navigation. I was really grateful my hubby was the one driving that day. The reward for our bravery was the panoramic views of the canyon and the distant mountains. The rock formations and desert vegetation create a striking contrast against the deep blue sky.
As you drive up the gradual ascent to Fish Creek Hill, the road follows the contours of the giant canyon walls, offering close-up views of rugged cliffs and colorful rock formations. Then we descend down the white-knuckle hairpin turns plunging 1, 500 feet to fish creek canyon creek where the stark greenery of cottonwoods, maple and sycamore trees fed by the nearby fish creek, contrast the otherwise arid landscape like eye candy. It might have been here that we decided on a little hike to take in the vastness of the canyon walls and a picnic overlooking the river. In fact there are some popular hiking trails along the way. If you have the Pro version of Alltrails, you can download the scenic Apache driving trail plus the walking trails.
Be sure to stop at the scenic lookout (Scenic Lookout, Arizona 85119 GMQF+9H Tortilla Flat, Arizona) for dramatic views of the Sonoran Desert Vistas.
Continuing past Fish Creek Hill, the road leads to Apache Lake, a long, narrow reservoir created by the damming of the Salt River. The crystal-clear lake is surrounded by steep canyon walls and desert terrain. It’s popular for boating, fishing, and camping. It feels almost surreal to be in the middle of nowhere, with no technology, and then stumble upon literally an oasis in the desert.
Apache Lake Marina and Resort, features a marina, a little hotel, and a lakeside restaurant. It is considered one of Arizona’s best-kept secrets. If you decide to rest your weary head for the night or stay and explore for a couple of days longer, you can choose from freshly renovated hotel rooms with lake views. Alternatively, you can pitch your tent under the shade of the palo verdes with lakefront views and truly reconnect with nature. (If you arrive from Roosevelt Dam via Highway 188, there is an RV park offering 30/50 amp, water and electrical hookups and a rather expensive dump staton. )
After driving the dusty trail and you’re thinking this is a good stop for libations, food, and maybe a loo, you’re absolutely right, and in luck. There is a store, restaurant, and bar, all with working flushable toilets! Now that is a relief, Indeed!
After a full tummy and some good hydration, we are ready to continue along the historic trail and follow the Salt River with its fun switchbacks and curves, offering more majestic views.
And, this seems like a good spot to stop and pick up next week. I know, things were just getting off to a good start with food in our tummy and an empty bladder. Next week we will complete the Apache trail and explore the wonders of the Roosevelt Dam.
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